Should Be at The Top of Your Bucket List

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

When I tell people our next vacation will be to some location in Mexico, they invariably ask, "Is it safe?"  I have to admit I have no idea where this strange idea that Mexico is full of crime and danger comes from.  Sure, I've heard stories of Mexican cartels, but I hazard a guess that strolling down any street in downtown Los Angeles or New York or New Orleans would be just as risky.  I have never once felt in danger.  Everywhere you look, there are police cars and police stationed in tourist areas with machine guns.  Me, I like having police with machine guns.  If you don't feel safe with that, nothing will make you feel safe!

Regardless, tourism ranks as the top (legal) money-producing enterprise in Mexico, so tourists are treated like royalty.  Jalisco is no exception.  Puerto Vallarta was one of the stops on the old TV show The Love Boat, for good reason.  It is beautiful and exotic and breath-taking.  A tropical paradise in a busy city would be the best way to describe it.  If that doesn't convince you, consider that Jalisco is the birthplace of tequila and it is the only place where tequila can be produced.  If neither of those things convince you to visit, then check out the rest of the blog and the the pictures.  You will soon see why this amazing destination needs to be at the top of any 'bucket list'.

Things to See and Do:

• By Sea:  Snorkeling at Marietas Islands.  This chain of islands is about one hour away from Puerto Vallarta and the boat trip alone is worth it.  On the way, we saw scads of various sea birds, dolphins that practically jumped onto the deck of our boat, and an entire school of manta rays.  In the winter months, the area is well-known for whale watching and I have no doubt it would be quite an adventure.  We were fortunately there during jellyfish hatching time, and seeing these tiny pink and clear creatures surrounding the boat was a fantasy that Walt Disney could only dream about.  So beautiful!  However, the truly unbelievable sight was the secluded beach at Marietas.  To get to it, you have to snorkel through a water tube.  It was rough swimming and seemed to take forever, but once you get inside, the trip is well worth it.  The islands were once used by the Mexican government as target practice and the leftover damage is now a beach that is inside one of these craters, completely surrounded and only accessible by water.  There is also a small grotto inside that you can crawl to.  From there, we went to Los Arcos that had the best snorkeling we have ever done--and we have snorkeled in most of the Caribbean!  Jellyfish, octopus, 'Nemo' fish--the two hours felt like ten minutes.  We used the local company Vallarta Sol and were given breakfast, lunch, a snack and an open bar.  The staff were amazing and seemed to have a heart for conservation.  There are only a couple of touring companies even allowed to do this tour so plan far in advance.  For more information, visit Vallarta Sol.
• By Land:  Four-wheeling the Sierra Madre Mountains.  The Sierra Madre Mountains is a group of mountains that extend far into Mexico.  An ATV tour is really the only way to see much of it as it would be inaccessible by regular car.  Tours in the area can be individually on an ATV or in a group with a dune buggy.  The tours last for hours and most of that time is spent traveling through rugged trails straight up into the mountains.  Our tour left from the middle of the city in Puerto Vallarta and we got to drive through back roads of the city and see what Puerto Vallarta is really like, not just the glittering touristy areas.  It was stark and beautiful and heart-breaking with poverty unlike anything we've seen anywhere else.  Our tour took us to a restaurant on top of a mountain with a layover that allowed us to eat some local fare, swim in the river and do a tequila tasting.  The guides were completely focused on our safety, our comfort and our fun. An amazing adventure!  For more information, visit Wild Treks Adventures.
• By Air:  Ziplining the tropical forest.  The Sierra Madre Mountains is a tropical forest, not a tropical jungle but the foliage and fauna have to be seen to be believed.  The Canopy El Eden forest is home to the most intense, most extreme zip lining I've ever done.  Considering I've zip lined Fremont Street in Vegas and flung myself off the tallest zip line structure in America, that's quite a statement.  Canopy El Eden is the location where Arnold Schwarzenegger's movie Predator was filmed and you can walk in his footsteps and hike those same mountains.  There are over 12 lines that criss-cross the site and hiking up the mountain is very strenuous, but the ride down is completely worth it.  The guides seem to be more monkeys than men, zipping through the trees as if they were born to it and making it look so easy!  When you're finished, end the day at The Eden restaurant sampling authentic Mexican fare and diving into the Mislamoya River, with a convenient rope swing leaving right from the restaurant.  For more information, visit Canopy El Eden.

Places to Eat:

• I'm going to cheat and recommend both a 'Thing To Do' and a 'Place To Eat' as one in the same.  While in Puerto Vallarta, you must take a trip to Las Caletas.  By day, it is a tropical paradise and private beach.  By night, it transforms into a Mayan fantasy called Rhythms of the Night.   You can only get to the location via a long boat ride but every minute is worth it.  As you pull up at the beach, you are greeted by costumed performers who lead you to the base of a temple/pyramid that is the scene for an incredible show.  The performance showcases traditional dance and music.  The costumes, the dancing--it was all so amazing that I felt like a kid on Christmas morning with my mouth hanging open.  The show ends right at dusk and you then wander down to the beach where tables are set up along the shore.  An authentic Mexican buffet awaits you with plenty of 'American' food for those who might be tired of salsa and guacamole.  There are as many courses as you want to eat and libations are poured liberally.  When you're finished, you are free to walk around the beach.  Each twist and turn of the trail is more amazing than the last and it seems but an instant until you hear the bells calling you back to the boat.  A once in a lifetime experience!  For more information, visit Vallarta Adventures.
• The Best View in Town.  If you like seafood, you'll have to head inland at Puerto Vallarta.  The Happy Lobster (La Langosta Feliz) has some amazing fresh fish and the best view of the tropical forest you will find.  The entire restaurant is open air with no walls and sitting on the second floor feels just like you're eating in the treetops.  The food was so good and they had the biggest prawns I have ever seen in my life.  Everyone at the table got something different and it would be hard to say what was the best!  What made the place so much fun though is that it was away from the usual tourist streets.  It's on a little side street just outside of town and all the food was authentic.  Most of the people there were locals.  No website but to make reservations, call 322-223-13-09 .
• Does recommending an Italian restaurant in Mexico seem odd to you?  Me, too, and yet........the youngsters rebelled at eating Mexican cuisine for every meal.  We decided to try La Terrazza di Roma for two other reasons:  #1--its location.  It is located in the Marina area right on the water.  Watching the yachts and boats while eating on a pier overlooking the water was just too much fun.  The open air pier had an air of romance about it.  We were there for breakfast but I can imagine at night, with candlelight, it would be quite lovely.  Reason #2--Well, the pier overlooking the water.  There are lots of restaurants on the Marina and we did try another one but I am a sucker for something fun.  This place was fun.  While we were there, some locals followed an alligator underneath the pier and I have some amazing photos of that.  Alligators under our seats?  Who knew they were even in Mexico?  Maybe they were crocodiles, I don't know.  And, the food? Quite good!  No website, but for reservations or for questions, call (322) 221-0560.

Do As Much.....Or As Little As You Want

 This is one place you'll not find on a cruise stop.  Instead, you'll have to want to go there and stay.  Playa Del Carman, Mexico sits just right across a stretch of water from Cozumel but seemed a world away from the busy Mexican tourist destinations we've been to before.  Don't get me wrong--I love Cozumel!  The blue-green water, the warm ticklish breeze, the homemade guacamole so good it'll make you want to smack those other guacs back in the states.  But, Playa Del Carman is a true slacker's paradise.  A place to laze away the days with sun, snoozing and eating.  Or, more, if you're so inclined.

But, honestly, I wasn't.  I didn't feel the need to run from tourist trap to tourist trap.  I didn't want to rush anywhere and do anything.  It's almost as if I were hypnotized in some way.  I just wanted to sit on the beach and experience heaven. 

Perhaps it had something to do with my timing?  After all, it was December 2012 and about one week away from the Mayan prediciton of world doom.  I could tell on the trip to Playa (about 45 minutes away from Cancun), that this would be a different vacation because of all the..well, hippies.  There were lots and lots of hippies.  Hippies everywhere.  These were the real thing, too, with knee-length dreadlocks, bulging backpacks, and tie-dyed garments from head to toe.  Why so many?  I had to know. 

So, I asked.  I asked the hippie guy sharing our ride (right after he asked the bus driver to stop at a convenience store for some beer because he just couldn't wait one more second.  The driver stopped--another thing I love about Mexico--the complete focus on customer service.)  Me:  "So, what's up with all the hippies?  Why are there so many of you here?"  Hippie:  "There's a bluegrass/folk festival at Tulum.  We want to be here when it all goes down.  This is where all the positive energy of the universe is."  Me:  "Huh!  Interesting!"  (Technically, he had a few "man's" throw in, such as "We want to be here when it all goes down, man" but you get the idea.) 

What better place to be at the end of the world?  Those hippies are on to something.  My blog this month will focus mostly on the eating (which I did lots of) and not a lot on the adventure (unless you count eating as much as you can an adventure). 

To Do:

• Get a massage on the beach.  Massages are big in Playa and masseuses are lined up to take your business for very inexpensive rates.  Our massage was $25 for the hour and it was one of the best hours of my life.  There is something so decadent about lying on a rooftop feeling the warm sun and soft breeze of the Mayan Riviera while getting a massage.  While there are many massage parlors, there are also masseuses who will come to your place.  There is even a massage parlor/hut right on the beach, literally just steps away from the water.  Our masseuse came to our location and was wonderful!  According to her business card, she does a variety of services such as shiatzu, reflexology, deep tissue, even manicures and pedicures.  While there, email her at mosara-17@hotmail.com or call 984-134-6072.
• Do a tequila tasting.  Tasting tequila in Mexico is like tasting bourbon in Kentucky:  you just have to go the source for the best stuff.  Tequila is something I had only formerly considered as a margarita ingredient but my lesson in tequila really opened my eyes.  Tequila is actually made from the 'heart' of a plant that is similar to a yucca.  The saying is "the heart can be cooked" (which I personally think would make a great title for a paranormal romance novel but...I digress).  The process of making tequila is so interesting so educate yourself and then try the stuff.  I thought tequila came in just a few flavors but there are dozens and dozens of them.  While I won't go into too much detail, I will say that my favorite is 1921 Crema de Tequila.  It puts Bailey's to shame and your coffee will never be the same again.  Splurge on a bottle you can't buy here in the states--some of them are made my local villages/natives and really helps out the local economy.
• Listen to a band with your feet in the sand.  Fusion Beach Hotel Bar and Grill, located at the end of 6 Calle, is more than a restaurant; it's an experience.  I recommend going at night, for dinner.  There is just something so relaxing about squatting in lawn chairs around a table by candlelight listening to some jams.  The night we went there was a Reggae band and a bellydancer--so fun!  The real treasure, though, was listening to the sounds of the surf under a sparkling sky with friends and laughter.  The food is pretty good, too.  For more information, visit Fusion Beach Hotel Bar and Grill.
• For those of you who insist on doing something, there is plenty to do.  There are hourly ferries to Cozumel and surrounding islands.  There are jet ski and parasailing rentals.  There are deep-sea fishing tours.  There are Mayan ruins nearby.  I heard all that--personally, I didn't step off the beach or the main strip. 

To Eat:

• For the friendliest service, try La Parilla Mexican Grill,  located at 5th Avenue and 8 Calle.  Every time we went, the entire staff went out of their way to make us smile and laugh and feel right at home.  When I say 'every time' we went, you can tell we went there a lot.  Every day for lunch.  Every.  Single. Day.  And, it wasn't just because of the great service.  First, La Parilla is the best spot in town for people-watching.  There is a rooftop and an open bar area and shaded tables right on the busiest street.  You can sit for hours and never see the same people twice.  Secondly, the margaritas are so good, you just might want to sit there for hours.  Delicioso!  Pair that with the tastiest chorizo queso I've ever had and this trumps as my favorite restaurant.  On our lunch night there, the manager gave me a calendar for being such a 'good customer'.  For more information, en espanol, visit La Parilla Mexican Grill.
• In our quest to find the perfect margarita, we stunbled onto the best pico de gallo on Earth at Tropical Playa Del Carman, located at 5th Avenue and 8 Calle.  While I am always a fan of good pico, this stuff was addictive---which probably explains why we went back so many times!  Combine that with half-price happy hour and fabulous seating right on the street, and you can't beat Tropical for a great place to start your adventure in fine dining.  For more information, en espanol, visit Restaurante-Bar-Hotel Tropical Playa Del Carmen.
• El Pirata.  Yep, a pirate bar!  Right on the beach!  This little place was too much fun.  When the sun and surf just gets to be too much to bear, take short stroll to El Pirata, located at 10 Calle, just keep walking until you hit the water.  Each table is a little grass hut and the seats at the bar are swings.  The margaritas are cold and the nachos have real steak.  Really, what else does one need in life?

Paradise is Closer Than You Think

Cabo San Lucas, Los Cabos, Mexico

When we first stepped on the plane for the trip over, I settled in for a nice long ride.  Just four short hours later, we were at our destination and I was in shock!  Traveling to Cabo, Mexico, was a faster trip than one to Las Vegas, Nevada with none of the usual time hangover.  Although we did have to switch planes once in Houston, jumping over the Sea of Cortez made this trip faster than I could have imagined.  Who knew paradise was so close to my own backdoor?

And, a paradise it was!  I had been expecting a lush, green tropical oasis but the stark beauty of the Baja Desert called to me with a song of its own.  Miles upon miles of dry and scrubby cactus were astounding and the heat washed over us like a warm hug--not the squelching humidity of other Mexican hot spots.  The town of Cabo had a wonderful small town feel to it with meandering streets full of local flavors and ware; the food was authentic and incredible; the people, the most hospitable  I've ever met.  In truth, I can think of nothing that distracted from pure perfection.

This is one of those locales that has you questioning the purpose of your life.  Makes you wonder if your job is really that important.  Makes you think that weekend visits with family could easily be turned into yearly skips back home.  Still, months after returning home, Cabo San Lucas calls to me like a siren, inviting me back.

Some places not to be missed:

To Do:

• Sunset Jazz and Wine Cruise on Tropicat Caramaran.  There are literally dozens of choices to take any willing rider out to see the famous Lover's Beach and Arch--pirate boat, sailboat, fishing boat, Sea Doo, etc.  We elected to go on the Tropicat at sunset, a huge catamaran.  While many in the harbor were loading onto mammoth partyboats full of pulsing music and lights, my party and I quietly stepped on this luxurious boat with jazz playing softly in the background.  The trip out and back takes a total of about three hours and the crew is attentive to your every need, filling wineglasses or other mixed drink and keeping the gourmet snacks ready.  While the point of the trip is to see the Arch, the travel back and forth is what is truly breathtaking.  Before we even left the bay, a pod of Orca whales breached in front of us.  While the loud partyboaters were jamming off in the distance, my crew on the sailboat stood perfectly still, watching the majestic creatures play in the water just a few feet from where we stood spellbound.  If that wasn't enough of treat, the local sea lion colony had its lone ambassador at point on a rock, calling out and showing off.  It felt surreal for this Kentucky girl to have witnessed such beauty.  And, all this was before even seeing the Arch, famous the entire world over!  For $75 a couple, this experience is bucket-list worthy.  For more information, see the website Tropicat
• Snorkeling and Mini Sub Dive.  There are many ways to see the waters in Cabo and since swimming is not allowed on the Pacific Ocean due to rough waves, you must travel by boat if you really want to experience the beauty of the surf.  Again, there are dozens of choices but a true once in a lifetime experience is going down under in a Mini-Sub.  The 30-minute independent personal submarine trip will allow you to see ocean life like never before.  Unhampered by masks and hoses, the submarine lets you come in contact with wildlife that even snorkelers can't begin to see, let alone touch.  Again, the personnel on all the attractions are there to please and the entire trip is one of endless drinks and food and fun.  For more information, see the website Oceanus Mini Subs and Cruises
• ATV Desert and Beach Tour.  It is hard to believe that an ocean location is also the site of one of the most beautiful deserts on earth.  This is probably what is most well-known in the area:  miles upon miles of free range ATV and dune buggy tours.  And, when I say free range, you're not following some man-made trail.  You're blazing your own path.  The Rancho Carisuva, an eco-adventure company, sits near the Pacific Ocean and is an authentic Baja Californian ranch with all kinds of animals and plenty of things to ride from horses to ATV's.  Whatever your pleasure, get ready for an experience you could never even have dreamed up.  One minute you're flying over barren desert floors then you're climbing cliff edges then you're skimming along deserted beaches while the spray of the Pacific cools you off.  Of all the things I've done in my life, this was truly the most amazing.  For more information, see the website Rancho Carisuva

To Eat (or Drink)

• Cabo Wabo.  Sammy Hagar's famous Cabo location lives up to its reputation.  Most nights see big name stars and rock bands on the main stage.  On the night we were there, the small stage out front hosted a local band that played some of the finest music I've ever heard.  Sitting under the stars, listening to great music and eating $2 tacos (a variety, all of which were delicious!  My favorite was the barbecue port and pineapple slaw.) was the perfect introduction to Cabo nightlife.  While there, try both signature house drinks--the Waborita and the Wabotini.  For more information, see the website Cabo Wabo Cantina
• Now I can say I've been to the most romantic restaurant in the world!  There is no way even Paris, France could top this place.  The Sunset Da Mona Lisa oozes romance from every terraced balcony and chilled wine glass.  Combine that with gourmet Italian food and breathtaking views and you have it all.  Situated right on the point, the restaurant is only open at sunset and the staff does it up right.  An entire sunset ceremony takes place with gongs and everything.  While all the food looks amazing, we just had to try steaks and fresh veggies grilled on volcanic rock.  For more information, see the website Sunset Da Mona Lisa
• If you're like my husband, you hear Mexican and you think Corona!  Well, don't be so quick to focus on that beer staple.  The Baja Brewing Company can give you something new to appreciate.  Located on the Puerto Paraiso Mall at the Marina, the beer and food is made fresh and right on the premises.  If anything can compete with the views of million dollar yachts and breathtaking waves of the Sea of Cortez, it is the menu which downplays the truly gourmet burger and pub offerings.  Sit outside and you have an entire night's worth of fun watching the eclectic mix of local musicians and travelers from around the world.  For more information, see the website at Baja Brewing Company